Whether you’re looking for a quick fix or seeking to end your bad hair days once and for all, here’s the lowdown on common hair problems.

By Christine Jalleh

1. Hair Condition: Flaky Scalp / Dandruff

While over-the-counter shampoos may control dandruff, they are not a cure. Natural skincare specialist and Founder of Saaf Pure Skincare, Dr. Mahvash Hussain-Gambles, discourages the use of harsh, anti-dandruff shampoos. “I recall an experiment with a well-known anti-dandruff shampoo during my first year as a pharmacology student. We left some healthy strands of hair in the shampoo overnight and found the hairs permed and kinky the next day. It’s far better to nourish and moisturise your scalp with a natural oil-based treatment.”

The Cause White flakes on your scalp, hair or shoulders? Dandruff, or Pityriasis capitis, is a common condition affecting the scalp while seborrheic dermatitis is a severe form of dandruff. Although the exact cause of dandruff is unknown, experts at Medical News Today (www.medicalnewstoday.com) attribute it to a range of factors including infrequent hair brushing, frequent shampooing, a yeast allergy, a scalp fungus called Malassezia, dry or oily skin, stress, reaction to hair or skin products or a poor diet (especially in zinc). People with certain skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema and people with Parkinson’s disease, other neurological illnesses and weakened immune systems are also more prone to dandruff. The Solution When treating dandruff, Medical News Today recommends considering your age and the severity of your condition. Experts suggest treating the dandruff by either slowing down the reproduction of skin cells and/or neutralising the yeast production that might be the cause. Antifungal shampoos containing one or more of the following active ingredients may help with either of the above processes: Ketoconazole (highly effective and can be used for the young and the elderly), Zinc Pyrithione, Selenium Sulphide, coal tar (long-term use stains dyed or treated hair), salicylic acids (some people experience drier scalps and worse flaking), Tea Tree Oil (some may be allergic to the oil) and Green Tea. Antifungal shampoos are more effective if the scaly or crusty patches on your scalp are carefully removed first. Cut down on the use of antifungal shampoos use once your dandruff is under control. When you find a particular shampoo becoming less effective, switch to a new one that contains another ingredient. Consider seeing a doctor or a dermatologist if your dandruff problem remains after several weeks of treating it yourself. Beauty Tip Eat a well-balanced, healthy diet and avoid excessive consumption of sugar (sweets, candies) and yeast (breads, beer) that may encourage the growth of the yeast.

2. Hair Condition: Limp, Oily Hair

In her book Teenage Beauty, beauty and make-up expert Bobbi Brown shares this tip: “When drying, hang head to the floor and flop hair over so that you dry roots in the opposite direction to which hair normally falls. Result? More volume.”

If a dry scalp is the main cause for concern, choosing a tea tree oil-based shampoo will help to alleviate a dry scalp. Do a patch test first!

The Cause Oily hair is due to over-active sebaceous glands, which produce sebum that keeps our hair elastic, flexible and strong. The over-production of sebum results in oily, greasy hair that gets dirty easily. Ironically, oily hair often comes from a dry scalp, which prompts the sebaceous glands to produce oil to counter the lack of moisture. Dr. Mahvash Hussain-Gambles shares that limp and oily hair may be due to internal factors such as a person’s genes, hormonal imbalances or a diet rich in fats. “The excessive use of synthetic hair care products may cause a build up on the scalp. In fact, harsh shampoos designed for greasy scalps can make matters worse by stripping the scalp of natural oil.” Tim Faber, president and managing partner of Skin Energizer, attributes oily hair to humid atmosphere and perspiration. “Running the hands through the hair constantly or brushing and combing it excessively will also stimulate the oil glands and increase the production of oil, making the hair look even oilier.” The Solution French hairstylist Yannig Sauvage, one of the world’s top 10, emphasises the importance of using the right shampoo. “The shampoo is the first step to hair care. Once you find a shampoo that works well with your hair condition, stick with it. Changing shampoos too often will upset the pH balance of your scalp, which results in problems like greasy hair or dandruff. Use a mild shampoo on oily hair and take note of your shampooing technique. Using the pads of your fingers, massage your scalp gently – don’t apply too much pressure and for goodness’ sake, don’t scratch your scalp with your fingernails!” For a short term remedy, Dr. Mahvash suggests applying a ‘dry shampoo’ that contains corn starch or maize starch to the roots to help ‘lift’ them. “Actually, a natural hair oil can help to normalise a greasy scalp without the use of oil stripping shampoos. Also, avoid eating too much fatty foods to reduce the production of oil on the scalp,” she says. Beauty Tips Make your own dry shampoo by mixing 1/4 oz orris root powder and 1/4 oz arrowroot powder. Sprinkle and brush in a small amount onto your hair. Leave for a few minutes and then brush out. (Recipe from www.greenchronicle.com) Rinse your hair with a quarter cup of vinegar after each wash to remove oil and shampoo or hair care product residue from your hair. Product David Babaii’s (for Wild Aid) Hydrating Shampoo An eco-friendly formula suitable for all hair types, the shampoo cleanses, purifies and protects, eliminating dirt, oil and styling residue that can dull or dry hair. Replenishes moisture in colour-treated hair for longer-lasting colour. Key ingredients include Cupuacu Butter (from the South American Amazon), Wild Orchid and Blue Algae extract. www.db4wildaid.com

3. Hair Condition: Damaged Hair

“For extreme dry scalp, massage a natural hair oil into the scalp and hair ends overnight and wash and dry as usual the next day. Try this treatment three times a week and then tail off to once a week. Natural hair oil can also be used to tame fly away or unruly curly hair when applied sparingly on dry hair,” says Dr. Mahvash Hussain-Gambles.

If your hair has been damaged from colour treatments, consider switching to a repairing henna, which has been used for centuries to keep hair shiny and bright.

The Cause Hair is made up of two parts: the ‘dead’ part or the hair shaft that is visible and the ‘living’ part or the hair follicle below the surface of the skin. The hair shaft has three layers of keratin or protein cells: the cuticle, which protects the cortex and the medulla. The cortex gives hair its form, colour and body and reflects the effects of dyeing, bleaching, perming and straightening. Damaged hair refers to damage to the cuticle and the cortex from harsh rays of the sun and pollutants in water. Excessive use of harsh shampoos, styling products, heating and even wrong hairstyles can also damage the hair beyond repair. In fact, many people continue to damage their hair without realising it. The Solution Most hair care experts prescribe intense, weekly conditioning treatments to restore fried or dried hair to a natural, healthy state. “I have many customers who come in asking for their hair to be straightened when they have just had a bad perm. Or, they want it coloured!” says Sauvage. “You need to realise that each of these processes alters your hair quite drastically thus having one done after another is simply abuse to your hair. For damaged hair, I would recommend deep conditioning treatments three times a week for a month. Only then should you consider a colour, a perm or straightening.” Ayurvedic hair loss expert, Neeta Gosalia, recommends treating damaged hair every week to an herbal mask mixed with an egg for deep conditioning. Beauty Tips Before going for a dip in the sea or the pool, apply hair oil or conditioner before you put on your swim cap. Remember to wash hair clean of sand and salt afterwards. Avoid daily washing of hair unless it is extremely necessary as it will strip off the natural sebum needed to protect your hair. Product John Masters Dry Hair Nourishment and Defrizzer A blend of 100% certified-organic plant and essential oils including Jojoba oil, Lavender, Helio-carrot, Rosemary and Cedarwood, this leave-in treatment suitable for colour-treated hair has high acclaim for its protective, moisturising and restorative properties. www.johnmasters.com

4. Hair Condition: Hair Loss

Ginseng is a herb used for years in Asia for its detoxifying, stimulating and blood circulation properties. Applying a ginseng-based hair or scalp oil or ginseng capsules may help to nourish and strengthen hair and reduce hair loss.

While Propecia is not approved for use by women, Minoxidil, a topical application, is FDA-approved for use on men and women. In many cases, hair loss is prevented and re-growth of hair occurred in areas where Minoxidil is applied as it increases the delivery of nutrients (through the blood) to the hair follicles.

For long, black, thick and shiny hair, mix sesame oil or olive oil in juice of bottle gourd and apply to hair. This helps prevent grey hair and hair fall and is very good for the overall health of hair.

The Cause As the average person loses 50 to 100 hairs per day, hair loss becomes a problem when you notice hair shedding in large amounts after combing or brushing, or when hair becomes thinner or falls out. The Belgravia Centre, a leading hair loss clinic in Britain, states that men and women prone to inherited hair loss called androgenic alopecia, have hair follicles containing the male hormone ‘testosterone’, which is converted into the androgen ‘Dihydrotestosterone’, or ‘DHT’, by an enzyme called 5-alpha reductase. DHT inhibits the growth of new hair cells, which results in a receding hair line, loss of hair on top of the scalp or eventual baldness in men or diffused thinning in women. Other factors include illness (diabetes, lupus), nutrition, medication, stress and hormone-related disorders (e.g. the thyroid). For women, sudden hair loss could also be due to pregnancy, menopause, the Pill, poor hair care practices and the use of hair cosmetics like bleaching or permanent waving. The Solution Due to the complex nature of hair loss, seek professional advice as soon you notice a pattern of hair loss. In many cases, the restoration process is highly effective during the early stages of hair loss. Ancient Ayurvedic principles focus on maintaining the human body at a proper balance. According to Ayurveda practice, an inherent weakness in a person’s constitution makes them more vulnerable than others to the effects of external factors. Based on these beliefs, an active regime of natural herbal treatments and a change in diet, lifestyle and exercise have been known to reverse hair loss. Alternatively, medication like Propecia is taken orally and aims to prevent further hair loss by blocking DHT from reaching the hair follicles. Reported side effects include decreased libido and impotence. People in advanced stages or medically-related hair loss can opt for surgical hair transplants. Taking as long as two years to complete, hair transplants involve relocating the current hairs on your scalp and grafted onto bald patches for an even distribution. Qualification for hair transplants depends on the overall quality (texture, colour and curl) and amount of existing hair and your age. According to Transitions International Group, candidates in their twenties are more likely to be turned away due to a yet-to-be established hair loss pattern. Beauty Tips Dry your hair thoroughly before wearing a scarf, hat or helmet because the dampness combined with sweat will attract fungi and bacteria, which may cause hair loss or dandruff. Eat a diet rich in oily fish and natural selenium, iron, zinc and silica or take supplements containing these minerals as they have been shown to alleviate hair loss.

Products
HairMAX LaserComb
An FDA-approved low-power, hand-held laser ‘comb’ designed to boost hair growth on the scalp, the LaserComb involves slow combing of the hair for a period of time a few times a week.
www.hairmax.com

Neeta’s Herbals
Based on Indian Ayurvedic principles, this programme of herbal mixtures and natural oils is developed by former hair loss victim, Neeta Gosalia with positive results visible in as early as 1-2 weeks.
www.neetasherbal.com